Tarantula Care Guide

Are Tarantulas Good Pets?

Tarantulas can make excellent pets for keepers who enjoy observing natural behavior and maintaining compact species-specific enclosures.

They do not require daily handling, social interaction, or complex lighting systems, and many species thrive with relatively simple care.

The major challenge is choosing a species appropriate to the keeper's experience. A calm terrestrial New World species is very different from a fast defensive Old World arboreal species.

Tarantulas should generally be considered display animals. Handling adds risk without providing an obvious benefit to the spider.

Females of many species live far longer than males, sometimes for decades, making them a substantial long-term commitment.

New World vs. Old World Tarantulas

New World tarantulas come from the Americas and many possess urticating hairs that can be kicked or brushed from the abdomen as a defense.

Many popular beginner species are New World terrestrials because they are relatively slow, hardy, and less defensive than many Old World species.

Old World tarantulas come from Africa, Asia, and surrounding regions. They generally lack urticating hairs and rely more heavily on speed, defensive posture, and medically significant venom.

Old World species should not be treated as handling animals and are better suited to experienced keepers comfortable with secure enclosure maintenance.

Temperament varies within both groups, so the label alone should not replace species-specific research.

Terrestrial vs. Arboreal vs. Fossorial Tarantulas

Terrestrial tarantulas spend most of their time on or near the ground. Their enclosure should prioritize floor space, deep substrate, a low fall distance, and a secure hide.

Arboreal species live above ground and need vertical climbing surfaces, upright cork bark, foliage, and ventilation that supports elevated webbing.

Fossorial species spend much of their time underground and require very deep compactable substrate that allows stable burrow construction.

Some species show intermediate behavior, especially as juveniles, so the keeper should design housing around the actual natural history of the species.

Using the wrong enclosure style can create unnecessary stress, prevent normal behavior, and increase injury risk.

Choosing a Healthy Tarantula

A healthy tarantula should have coordinated movement, intact legs, a normally rounded abdomen, and the ability to grip surfaces appropriate for its lifestyle.

The abdomen should not appear severely shriveled or excessively distended. A small bald patch on a New World species may simply reflect urticating hair use.

Watch for persistent curling of the legs beneath the body, inability to stand, major fluid loss, a ruptured abdomen, or repeated uncontrolled twitching.

Missing legs can regenerate over future molts, but active bleeding or recent traumatic injury requires immediate attention.

Ask about species, approximate age or size, feeding history, last molt, sex if known, and current enclosure conditions.

Preparing Before You Buy

Identify the exact species before buying because enclosure style, moisture, ventilation, adult size, speed, and defensive behavior differ dramatically.

Prepare the enclosure in advance with appropriate substrate depth, hide or climbing structure, ventilation, water dish, and secure lid.

Choose tools such as long feeding tongs, catch cups, soft paintbrushes, and transfer containers before the spider arrives.

Do not rely on bare hands to move a fast or defensive species.

If the species is arboreal or fossorial, plan enclosure access so maintenance can be performed without destroying the main retreat.

Tarantula Enclosure Size and Setup

Tarantulas do not generally need enormous enclosures. Excessive open space can make prey difficult to locate and may create dangerous fall distances.

The enclosure should be large enough for normal movement and webbing while still allowing the spider to establish a secure retreat.

Ventilation is essential. Cross ventilation is particularly valuable for species that are sensitive to stagnant conditions.

Every enclosure must be escape-proof. Tarantulas can exploit surprisingly small gaps, especially slings and slender arboreal species.

Hard décor should be minimized in terrestrial setups because falls can rupture the abdomen.

Terrestrial Tarantula Housing

Terrestrial species require more floor space than height. The distance between the substrate and lid should remain low enough to reduce the risk of a damaging fall.

Provide deep substrate so the spider can dig, anchor webbing, and reduce open vertical space.

A cork bark hide placed partly into the substrate works well for many species.

Keep heavy rocks and sharp decorations out of the enclosure. A large terrestrial tarantula can rupture its abdomen if it falls onto a hard object.

Moisture requirements vary by species, so the substrate should not automatically be kept wet.

Arboreal Tarantula Housing

Arboreal tarantulas require vertical space, upright cork bark, and surfaces that support climbing and web construction.

The enclosure should open in a way that does not destroy the spider's main retreat every time maintenance is performed.

Cross ventilation is especially important for many arboreal species.

Provide a water dish that is easy to access and secure enough not to tip.

Juvenile arboreal species may web heavily around cork, foliage, and upper corners, so place décor strategically before the spider settles in.

Fossorial Tarantula Housing

Fossorial species require deep substrate, often much deeper than keepers initially expect.

The substrate should be compact enough to support a stable burrow rather than collapsing immediately.

Provide a starter burrow or partially buried cork tube to encourage natural excavation.

Do not repeatedly dig up a fossorial species simply because it is not visible. Spending long periods underground is normal.

Feeding can be monitored by offering prey near the burrow entrance and removing uneaten insects after an appropriate interval.

Tarantula Temperature

Most commonly kept tarantulas do well at comfortable warm room temperatures rather than extreme heat.

A general range around 70 to 78°F works for many species, though specific needs vary.

Many tarantulas tolerate modest nighttime drops without supplemental heating when the room remains stable.

If extra heat is needed, warm the room rather than placing a strong heat source directly against a small enclosure whenever possible.

Heat mats attached directly to the bottom of a tarantula enclosure are risky because a spider may burrow toward the heat and become dehydrated or overheated.

Always research the target species rather than applying one universal temperature to every tarantula.

Humidity and Ventilation

Tarantula humidity requirements vary widely by habitat. Some species prefer relatively dry substrate with access to water, while others need consistently moist lower layers.

Humidity percentage alone is often less useful than substrate condition, species ecology, ventilation, and access to drinking water.

Stagnant wet enclosures can promote mold, mites, bacterial growth, and poor air quality.

Very dry enclosures can contribute to dehydration and difficult molts in moisture-dependent species.

For many species, allowing part of the substrate to dry while maintaining slightly moister lower layers creates a useful gradient.

Research species-specific moisture requirements rather than misting every enclosure on a fixed schedule.

Best Substrate for Tarantulas

Substrate should support burrowing, absorb limited moisture, anchor webbing, and cushion the spider in the event of a fall.

Coconut fiber, organic topsoil without additives, peat-based mixes, and species-appropriate soil blends can all work.

Terrestrial and fossorial species usually benefit from substantial depth.

Avoid gravel, large wood chips, sharp bark, calcium sand, and soil containing fertilizer, pesticides, or perlite.

Compact the substrate enough that tunnels can hold shape, particularly for burrowing species.

Do not keep the substrate universally wet unless the species specifically requires consistently moist conditions.

Water and Hydration

Every juvenile and adult tarantula should have access to a clean water dish whenever enclosure size allows.

Water dishes do not cause tarantulas to drown when appropriately sized and are one of the simplest ways to prevent dehydration.

Refill and clean the dish whenever it becomes empty or dirty.

Many tarantulas place substrate or webbing in the water dish. This is normal and simply requires maintenance.

Slings too small for a conventional dish can use a tiny shallow container or receive carefully managed moisture appropriate to the species.

Do not rely only on misting as a substitute for drinking water in larger juveniles and adults.

Tarantula Feeding Guide

Tarantulas are carnivorous predators that generally eat live invertebrates.

Common feeders include crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms, superworms, and other appropriately sized insects.

Prey should be sized according to the spider. Very large prey can injure slings or disturb a tarantula in pre-molt.

Slings may eat more frequently than adults, often one or two small prey items several times per week depending on growth and species.

Juveniles may be fed once or twice per week, while many adults do well with a moderate meal every one to two weeks.

Body condition should guide feeding frequency. A very large abdomen indicates the spider does not need constant feeding.

Remove uneaten prey, especially when the spider appears to be entering pre-molt.

Spiderling Care

Spiderlings, commonly called slings, require smaller enclosures, smaller prey, and closer moisture management than adults.

The container should be secure but well ventilated, with substrate deep enough for burrowing if the species needs it.

Very small slings can eat pinhead crickets, tiny roach nymphs, chopped mealworms, or pre-killed prey pieces.

Many slings scavenge readily from freshly killed prey, making feeding easier and safer.

Because tiny containers dry quickly, moisture should be monitored more frequently than in adult enclosures.

A sling that disappears underground may be preparing to molt or simply behaving normally for its species.

Molting and Pre-Molt Behavior

Molting is one of the most important events in tarantula husbandry. The spider sheds its old exoskeleton to grow and repair lost tissue.

Pre-molt signs may include reduced appetite, darkening coloration, a swollen abdomen, increased hiding, webbing, and refusal of prey.

Many tarantulas molt on their backs. This is normal and should not be mistaken for death.

Never disturb, flip, or handle a tarantula during a molt unless there is a true emergency.

Remove live prey before the molt because insects can injure a vulnerable spider.

After molting, the new exoskeleton and fangs remain soft. Wait until the fangs darken and the spider is fully hardened before feeding again.

Large adults may require a week or more before feeding safely, while small slings often harden faster.

Urticating Hairs

Many New World tarantulas possess urticating hairs on the abdomen that can irritate skin, eyes, and respiratory passages.

A defensive spider may kick hairs toward a perceived threat using the rear legs.

Repeated exposure can cause increasingly strong reactions in some people.

Do not place the face near an open enclosure and avoid rubbing the eyes after maintenance.

Wash hands and forearms after working in enclosures of species known to use urticating hairs.

Eye exposure can be medically serious and should be treated promptly.

Handling and Keeper Safety

Routine handling is not recommended for tarantulas. The spider gains no clear benefit, while the risk of a fall, bite, or urticating hair exposure increases.

Terrestrial tarantulas are especially vulnerable to abdominal rupture if dropped from even a modest height.

Fast or defensive species should be moved with catch cups, long tools, and controlled enclosure transfers rather than by hand.

Never handle Old World species for recreation.

If a tarantula must be redirected, a soft paintbrush can be used gently on the rear legs or abdomen without pressing hard.

Plan transfers before opening the enclosure so doors, windows, pets, and unnecessary people are out of the area.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Tarantulas produce relatively little waste, so full enclosure sterilization is rarely needed during routine care.

Remove prey remains, boluses, moldy material, and contaminated substrate when noticed.

Clean the water dish regularly and remove excessive webbing only when it interferes with maintenance.

Do not destroy a well-established burrow or web retreat without a specific reason.

Major substrate changes are appropriate when the enclosure becomes contaminated, develops persistent mold, or no longer meets the spider's needs.

Use reptile-safe or invertebrate-safe cleaning methods and avoid scented chemicals or aerosol cleaners.

Quarantine and Collection Safety

New tarantulas should be housed separately and observed before tools or décor are shared with an established collection.

Mites, mold, hitchhiking insects, and unknown enclosure contaminants can spread between setups.

Use separate water dishes and avoid transferring substrate between animals.

Observe feeding response, movement, abdomen condition, and molting history.

Label enclosures clearly with species and safety notes, especially when maintaining medically significant Old World species.

Keep catch cups and transfer tools easily accessible near the collection.

Common Tarantula Health Concerns

Dehydration may cause weakness, poor posture, a shriveled abdomen, or difficulty moving. Immediate access to clean water and appropriate species-specific moisture is important.

A ruptured abdomen is a life-threatening emergency, especially in large terrestrial species. Falls are a common cause.

Stuck molts can occur when the spider cannot free one or more limbs or body parts. Disturbance during the molt can make the situation worse.

Mites may appear around the mouthparts, joints, or enclosure waste. Not every tiny enclosure organism is parasitic, so identification matters.

Persistent uncontrolled twitching or movement abnormalities can be associated with toxic exposure or other serious problems.

Any spider that remains in a death curl, loses large amounts of fluid, or cannot stand should be treated as an emergency.

Sexing Tarantulas

Adult males and females differ significantly in lifespan and body proportions, but juvenile sexing can be difficult.

Adult males often develop tibial hooks in species that possess them, longer legs, and emboli on the pedipalps after the final molt.

Females generally retain heavier body proportions and may live many years longer.

Exuviae, the shed exoskeleton, can often be examined for female spermathecae and is one of the more reliable sexing methods.

Do not force or restrain a tarantula for ventral sexing when safer methods are available.

Cohabitation and Communal Housing

Most tarantulas should be housed individually.

Cannibalism can occur even between animals of the same species and similar size.

A small number of species are sometimes kept communally by experienced keepers, but communal success is never guaranteed.

Food competition, stress, hidden cannibalism, and uneven growth are common concerns.

Unless the species is well documented as a communal candidate and the keeper understands the risks, individual housing is the safer approach.

Preventing Falls and Abdominal Rupture

Falls are one of the most serious preventable risks for heavy terrestrial tarantulas. Their abdomens are soft and can rupture if the spider drops onto hard décor or from excessive height.

Keep the distance between the substrate surface and the enclosure lid relatively low for large ground-dwelling species. Deep substrate reduces this distance while also supporting burrowing.

Avoid rocks, ceramic decorations, and sharp wood beneath open climbing areas. Cork bark and soft substrate are safer choices.

Never place a terrestrial tarantula on a table, shoulder, or hand high above the floor. Even a calm spider can bolt unexpectedly.

Safe Tarantula Transfers

Rehousing should be planned before the enclosure is opened. Prepare the new habitat, catch cup, long tongs, soft brush, and a clear working area in advance.

Place the old enclosure inside a larger escape-proof workspace when possible. Close doors and windows and keep pets away.

Guide the spider gently with a soft brush rather than poking or squeezing it. Fast species may move suddenly, so keep the catch cup ready.

For highly defensive Old World species, use a controlled tunnel or container-to-container transfer rather than exposing the spider in an open room.

Mature Male Tarantulas

Adult males often change behavior dramatically after their final molt. They may wander continuously, refuse food, and focus on finding a mate.

Mature males usually develop emboli on the pedipalps and may develop tibial hooks depending on species.

Because adult males often eat less, body condition should be monitored without forcing food repeatedly.

Secure lids are especially important because mature males may test every edge of the enclosure while wandering.

Webbing Behavior and Retreat Construction

Webbing varies dramatically among tarantula species. Some terrestrial species lay only thin mats around a hide, while arboreal and certain fossorial species may build dense tunnels, curtains, or heavily reinforced retreats.

Webbing is normal and should not be removed simply because the enclosure looks messy. It may help the spider sense vibration, secure substrate, protect a burrow entrance, and create a stable resting site.

Place cork, leaves, anchor points, and enclosure structure before the spider settles in so it can build naturally without repeated disturbance.

If webbing blocks a water dish or front door, trim only the minimum amount needed for safe maintenance. Destroying an established retreat can cause unnecessary stress.

Changes in webbing may also occur before molting, after feeding, during maturation, or after a rehouse, so behavior should be interpreted in context rather than treated as a single health indicator.

Common Tarantula Care Mistakes

• Using the same enclosure style for every tarantula
• Giving a terrestrial species too much fall height
• Providing fossorial species with shallow substrate
• Providing arboreal species with no vertical retreat
• Keeping the enclosure constantly wet
• Keeping moisture-dependent species bone dry
• Using poor ventilation
• Using heat mats directly under the enclosure
• Handling tarantulas for entertainment
• Handling Old World species
• Leaving live prey with a spider in pre-molt
• Disturbing or flipping a spider during molting
• Feeding adults too frequently
• Removing a burrow simply because the spider is hidden
• Using sharp rocks or hard décor under terrestrial species
• Failing to provide a water dish
• Assuming every tiny enclosure organism is a harmful mite
• Keeping multiple tarantulas together without species-specific justification

Tarantula Products and Related Care Guides

Continue exploring Big Apple Herp's tarantulas, feeder insects, and Reptile Learning Center resources.

Tarantula Care Frequently Asked Questions